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Mexican Pepperleaf (Piper auritum Kunth)

Synonyms

botanicalPiper sanctum
DanishMexikansk Peber-blad
EnglishSacred pepper, Root beer plant, Eared pepper
FrenchPoivre mexicain
GermanMexicanischer Blattpfeffer, Geöhrter Pfeffer
HungarianMexikói borslevél
LithuanianAusytasis pipiras
RussianМексиканский перечный лист
Meksikanski perechnyi list
SpanishHoja santa, Yerba santa, Acuyo, Anisillo
Piper auritum: Mexican pepper leaf (acuyo)
Mexican pepper leaf
Used plant part

Fresh leaves. They can grow to sizes of 30 cm and more.

Since dried or fresh leaves are hard to get outside of tropical México, cooks often will need a substitute for Mexican pepper­leaves. The best option is to grow the plant, which turns out rather decorative and surprisingly robust.

The canonical substitute for peper leaves are avocado leaves, but only avocado types native to México (Persea drimyfolia) have scented foliage; avocados from other regions are mostly Persea americana with insipid leaves. Note that because avocado leaves share their main constituent, safrol, with pepper leaves, they offer no health benefits.

Mexican tarragon or even ordinary French tarragon will work in recipes that use puréed leaves, but will of course fail for recipes that use Mexican pepper-leaves as wrappers for fish, poultry or tamales; in the latter case, Thai basil (horapha type) can be tried.

Plant family

Piperaceae (pepper family)

Sensory quality

Aromatic and pleasant, loosely reminiscent to anise, nutmeg and black pepper. The flavour is strongest in the young stems and veins, which have additionally a pleasant warming pungency. See also cicely on the topic of anise fragrance.

Main constituents

The essential oil from the leaves (0.2%) is rich in safrole (up to 80%), a substance with pleasant odour. Furthermore, a large number of mono- and sesquiterpenoids have been found.

Piper auritum: Hoja Santa (acuyo)
Mexican pepperleaf (hoja santa), plant with flower

See sassafras about the potential health hazards of safrole. Besides in P. auritum, safrole appears in several other neotropic pepper species. At least one of them, Piper hispidinervium (syn. P. franguanum), is currently grown in Brazil for extraction of safrole (pimenta longa). Black pepper contains only traces of this toxic substance.

Origin

Tropic Mesoamerica (Southern México, Guatemala, Panamá, Northern Colombia).

Etymology

See pepper. The species name auritus derives from Latin auris ear and means (long)-eared, referring to the leaves’ shape.

The (rare) English term eared pepper is open to misunderstandig, because English ear has two distinct meanings organ for hearing and inflorescence/infrutescence of various plants, particularly cereals. The two are actually chance homonyms and derive from different Proto-Indo-European roots: H₂EUS ear (for hearing) but H₂EḰ sharp, pointed (cf. acute or acid).

I cannot explain the Spanish name hoja santa sacred leaf; maybe this hints at cultic use of this plant in Aztec rituals. The English name root beer plant is motivated by the olfactory similarity to sassafras, which is used to prepare the US softdrink root beer.

Selected Links

Pacific Islands Ecosystems at Risk: Eared Pepper Sorting Piper names (www.plantnames.unimelb.edu.au) Recipe: Mole Verde (groups.yahoo.com) Recipe: Mole Verde con Pollo (The Mole Page, www.ramekins.com) Recipe: Mole Verde de Oaxaca (The Mole Page, www.ramekins.com) Safrole from plants (erowid.org)


Piper auritum: Flower of hoja santa (acuyo)
Flower of Mexican pepper leaf
Piper auritum: Flower of hoja santa
Branch with young flower
Mexican pepper leaves are, unfortunately, one of those spices that are hardly ever available outside their region of origin.

The spice is much used in the cuisines of tropical México. The leaves are a fragrant decoration or can be wrapped around some stuffing and steamed, baked or broiled. A famous recipe from the Veracruz province (where the spice is particularly popular) is Pescado en Hoja Santa, fish wrapped in pepper leaves, baked and served with a spicy tomato sauce. In Central México, pepper leaves are used to flavour chocolate drinks (Aztecs’ chocolate, see Vanilla).

Last, Mexican pepperleaves are an essential ingredient for mole verde, one of the famous seven sauces of Oaxaca (los siete moles, see paprika about mole in general and sesame about mole Poblano).

Mole verde differs from other kinds of mole by being composed mostly of fresh herbs; it does not contain any ground nuts or seeds (there are, however, versions that contain pumpkin seeds both for flavour and for a deep green colour). As other moles, it is made of several spices (cloves, cumin, green jalapeño- or serrano-chiles, garlic), herbs (thyme, marjoram, parsley) and tomatillos, which are boiled in chicken stock and then puréed; the liquid is then thickened with masa harina (corn flour) and seasoned with ground pepper leaves and, if desired, a couple of sprigs of epazote. Mole verde goes well to poultry; it tastes best when fresh, unlike other moles.



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